Process for making dress forms



Sept. 16, 1952 E. NYBERG 2,610,773

PROCESS FOR MAKING DRESS FORMS Filed Nov. 23, 1946 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 nvmvron Esfer 1V5! berg ATTORNEY Sept. 16,-1952 E. NYBERG 2,610,773

PROCESS FOR MAKING DRESS FORMS Filed Nov. 23, 1946 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVEIYVTOR. Esfeh N y berg A T TORNE'Y Sept. 16, 1952 E. NYBERG 2,610,773

PROCESS FOR MAKING DRESS FORMS I Filed Nov. 23, 1946 i 4 Sheets-Sheet a IN VEN TOR.

/ Efer Ny r-y 35 33 A TTORNEY Sept. 16, 1952 E. NYBERG PROCESS FOR umxmc DRESS FORMS 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed Nov. 23, 1946 mmvrox.

Ester N ybery ATTORNEY Patented Sept. 16, 1952 UNITED STATES PATENT om n PROCESS FOR 2,610,773 MAKING DRESS FORMS Ester Nybcrg, Seattle, Wash. el mi a ion No ember 23, 1946, ser alNo- 7. 1.993

' 1 Claim.

This invention relates to dress .IQI ilS and 1.1 011 particularly to a method of makh g such forms which correspond to a particular vl lqqlel Qr mane, nequin.

A principal object of my invention is to Provide a method of making ,a dress form which is a curately moulded to the torso ofits intended user so that garments may be made with the same fit and accuracy as though fitted on the user.

Another object of my'inventionis to eliminate the inconvenience and loss of time incident to individual fittings from time to time new garments are desired.

A further object of .my invention is to provide a permanent. light. du able. accurate dressmakers model .or form.

Other objects will appear fromthe accompanying drawing and specifications in which;

Fig. ,1 is a view in perspective of a tubular au e which is first applied in melt ng a form; I

Fig. 2 is a rear view in perspective illustrating the fitting of the tubular auze'ion h .0 0 of the mannequin;

Fi 3 is a rea vi w in. pers ect ve s owin the t bu r sau efltte and a c l a attac ed t t e auze;

Fig. 4 is a front view :in, Perspective showing the method of measuring the mannequin;

Fi 5 is a side view in elevation i ust a n the method of measuring the posture of the nequin; I

Fi 6 1s a fron view j Ih rsneetive Showin the appl cat on of the fi st s r p to Iormthe shoulders of the dress form;

F 7 is a front view in perspe t show n the application of the strips to form the skirt of the dress form; n

Fig. 8 is a front view in'pers pectiveshowing the application of strips to form the waist of the dress form;

Fig. 9 is a front view in -;perspective showing the initial application of strips to form the bust of the dress form; I

Fig. 10 is a front view in perspective showing a completed bust form of one type;

Fig. 11 is a front 'view -in perspective showing a complete bust form of another type, and

Fig. 12 is a rear --view in perspective of the completed dress form andil-lustrating the-method of cutting the form for-registry. v

Before the actual construction or the fermthe model first removes her outer garments wearing only her foundation garm'ents', as a-flrrn foundation iseasierto work on.

in len t The tuhu a sau e i l ped o e th mod l and i the i e it s sh ped n t e el as shown in Fig. 2 and then removedand seamed cl w e e sthe the auze and th e ce c t away av ng the auze shaped c se t t e orso o the mode The sense must n t be tight ugh, how er, to d press the br asts 'lhe a ze i o ieu d n about seven in h from the t a own t .2 t e m h a mho' s- I The top Porti n o the same is how capped smoot ly ve h shou de s a sh wn at? in ie 3 nd p nned by emmen him i The back eam s oul be Pu ed ofi ce e t av c ness when the form is finished and ready to be ut o the-model. v o

A ter e. shoulders ar em e hly-an n e d n a band of muslin 24, approximately two inches wide cut straight of the goods is wrapped around the neckto forma collarwhieh isthen pinned to t et p o he u u a gau y n h fi- Th e efthe mu in b d r inne to ether pho side of the center (Fig. '3') to prevent the cutting of the pins when the form is finally cut up the back when finished.

After the tubular gauze is fitted properly on th de a d t e c l a Pin d in wa the model is yery acura-tely measured-before any paper is applied; The first measurement taken is around the waist. The model is first consulted as to the ,snugness of the and the tape pinned in place and the mea'surementrecorded; as at 25, see Fig. 4; Agreement aboutwa-isbmeasurement is the most important pointin this method because it is accurately duplicated in the finished dress form and no alterations nor adj-ustments of any kind will be necessary." The waist tape is left in correct place until all measurements have been taken. Measuremer-i t is "then taken from the floor tothe shoulder sea-mas indicatedat 21. The height of both shoulders is measured. The armhole measurement is taken asfindicated'at 28, the 'tape'being brought well up into the ar-m pit. flhe posture istaken' Icy-holding a y'ard stick or the like by one end'and leaving -it-hang free as close as possible to theboi-Y without-touching it and the distance the buttock extends beyond the shoulders, or-howfarin, is d ete-rmined. See

The model is next-seated and the -modeling of the shoulders commenced. Short strips of gummed paper are crossed over the shoulders, the first strip being placed close to the neck making a joint between collar muslin and gauze. Successive gummed strips are applied to the shoulder areas in criss-cross fashion from the neck seam line or collar to the tip of the shoulder and extending over the shoulder line to form a cap extension. These strips do not extend more than 4 inches down from the shoulderline and no strips are applied below the neck front or back.

The model now stands with the proper posture as before mentioned. Long strips of paper are now wrapped around the thigh portions of the mannequin to form the bottom edge portion of the dress form, these strips being positioned low enough to reproduce all curves. These strips may be almost to the knees on some figures. In applying these strips, the first strip 33 is wrapped around the bottom as low as determined to make good figure reproduction and the ends overlapped several inches as shown at 34. The gauze must be held down smoothly while this first strip is applied at the bottom. The next strip of paper 35 is now wrapped around in a similar manner, the ends overlapping the same as before and its lower edge overlapping the top edge of strip 33 as shown at 36. A couple or three more strips as indicated at. 31 and 38 are now applied in a similar manner with their ends,

generously overlapping and the lower edges overlapping each previous strip as before described.

Another long strip of paper 3%) is wrapped around the waist line and the measurement taken, making sure that the waist measurement is exactly the same as previously recorded. After this strip is properly in place a second strip is placed over it to more firmly hold it in place. The papering of the skirt is continued by applying long strips of paper 40 and 4| with the lower ends overlapping strip 38 and the upper ends running diagonally upward over the hips as shown. Another strip is now placed straight across near the lower ends of strips 40 and 4! as shown at 42, Fig. 8. The papering is continued in a. similar manner alternating diagonal and straight strips to a point 43, a few inches below the waist line.

When point 43 is reached a girdle is now formed by applying strips of paper 44 about 8 inches long, placing them vertically around the waist with the edges overlapping as shown. The top and bottom ends of the strips 44 are very much staggered to make a firmer bond with the strips of paper to be applied over the girdle'later. The girdle is now covered with alternating diagonal and straight strips as described in forming the skirt, as shown is Fig. 9. Care should be taken that the diagonal strips amply cross each other over the hips.

The skirt having been papered, the chest and breasts are next papered. In forming the bust of the dress form, long strips 45 and 46, Fig. 9, are applied to the torso of the mannequin so that they extend diagonally from points on opposite sides just below the waist line upwardly in crossing relation between the breasts to points at the shoulders. When the first two strips are affixed, additional strips are applied in the same manner in overlapping relation, the strips from opposite sides being interlaced, as shown in Fig. 10. A straight strip of paper 41 is now wrapped around the model near the lower end of strips 45 and 46. Other long strips of paper 48 and 49 are now applied crossing shortly below the neck and extending diagonally under the arms as shown. These are now separately covered by applying in an overlapping fashion onehalf inch strips of gummed paper until they are entirely covered. This process is continued until the breasts and chest are covered. If the breasts are well rounded they will be nicely covered by this operation as shown in Fig. 10.

If the breasts are pointed they are very hard to cover in this manner, e.,g. after the chest is well covered by strips 45, 46, 41, 43 the points of the breasts will still be protruding. The points of the breasts are now separately covered by &- inch strips of paper applied over them in any convenient manner such as indicated by 50 in Fig. 11. These strips must overlap. Other methods of covering pointed breasts may also be used following their contour.

When the body is well covered and no thin spots are left the neck is covered. This is the last operation before cutting the form off the model and is accomplished by applying strips of paper 5| and 52, Fig. 11, starting at the sides of the neck running forward and downward, cross-.

ing in front as shown. Similar stripsof paper are now applied but instead of running forward they run backward and cross in back in a similar manner. More strips of paper 53 and 54 are similarly applied overlapping the top edges of 5| and 52 until'the top of the muslin collar 24 is reached. Straight strips of paper are Wrapped around the top of the collar.

The form may now be reinforced by supplemental strips of paper where deemed necessary. Preferably, after the dress form is completed. several strips are applied vertically from top to bottom on the back of the form to reinforce the area which is to be cut for removing the form from the mannequin.

Upon completing the papering a number of heavy vertically spaced horizontal lines 53 are marked across the back as shown in Fig. 12. The form is now out up the center of the back as shown at 54, the line of out being substantially straight except for a decided notch as shown at 55 a few inches below the waist line. The form is now ready for removal. The lines 53 and the notch 55 are for matching or registering the cut edges after the form has been taken off the model. The form is now gently removed from the model and a tape placed around the waist and pinned at exactly the measurement previously recorded Fig. 4 and left there untilthe form has been fastened together and dried. Long strips are applied over the seam of the cut, overlapping the edge portions of the formon both sides of the cut seam. Any thin spots in the form are reinforced with additional strips as. required and the form is then dried and lacquered. The dress form is then complete and is preferably mount ed to coincide with the height and posture of the model or mannequin.

Having described my invention what I claim and desire to protect by Letters Patent is:

The method of making a dress form comprising the steps of applying a thin fabric around a mannequin and fitting said fabric to conform to the mannequin, forming a shell on said fabric and conforming to the mannequin by successively applying and adhering a plurality of strips in overlapping relation on said fabric until the torso of the mannequin is completely covered with said strips, producing a series of vertically spaced horizontal marks on the back of said shell, cutting said shell up the back and across 5 said marks and in a line to form at least one REFERENCES CITED notch adjacent the waist portion of said Shell The following references are of record in the removing said shell from the mannequin by file of this patent: spreading the cut edges thereof, positioning said out edges together with said notch interfitted 5 UNITED STATES PATENTS and with said marks in register, and securing the Number Name Date juxtaposed cut edges together to provide a per- 722,983 Hofimann Mar. 1'7, 1903 manent dress form. 1,026,832 Schindheim May 21, 1912 v 1,115,567 Plannett Nov. 3, 1914 ESTER NYBERG. 10 2,151,017 Dorru Mar. 21, 1939 2,285,376 Lovell Jan, 2, 1942 2,376,553 Patten May 22, 1945 

